IL PARADOSSO DEL GAMBERO

Anni ’70, San Benedetto del Tronto è una delle marinerie più importanti d’Italia, il suo porto accoglie pescherecci che andranno a pescare in tutti i mari del mondo. Chi si imbarca sa che il lavoro sarà duro ma redditizio, si costruiscono piccole fortune che verranno reinvestite in molti settori, a cominciare dal turismo. In quegli stessi anni oltre all’esportazione si sviluppa un mercato opposto e complementare, quello dell’importazione, destinato a diventare dominante in questi ultimi anni in cui oltre la metà del prodotto ittico mangiato dagli italiani è di provenienza estera.
Nei decenni immediatamente successivi comincia un rapido declino, dall’abbondanza di risorse (ittiche, ma anche economiche) si susseguono cali a colpi di decine di punti percentuali: dall’86 al ’96 la quantità di scampi pescata si dimezza, nel 2011 i calamari pescati sono 1/5 di quelli del 1976. Per non parlare delle taglie.
Le politiche locali, regionali, nazionali e comunitarie non sono sempre capaci né di comprendere né soprattutto di contrastare questa tendenza; nei pescatori e nell’opinione pubblica aumenta il malcontento, e in questo malcontento il populismo e l’ambientalismo-opportunista ci sguazzano.
Aggiungiamoci anche che l’Adriatico è stato il muro di Berlino dei mari, mettiamoci i drammatici eventi bellici degli ultimi decenni, ed ecco che le politiche della pesca finiscono per essere inconsistenti, irrazionali e inconcludenti. E infine per mescolare ancora di più le carte ci sono i cambiamenti climatici, l’innalzamento della temperatura dell’acqua dell’Adriatico, l’inquinamento.
La situazione è drammatica, e la politica non fa niente per nasconderlo, anzi applica misure sempre più restrittive che non fanno altro che aumentare le paure e i problemi di chi vive della pesca (si veda il problema dei vongolari marchigiani).
Eppure a chi fa il mio mestiere la situazione non appare irrecuperabile. Io, che sono nato nell’84, non ho vissuto gli “anni d’oro”, come li sento chiamare continuamente, ma ho assistito a dei cambiamenti rapidissimi. Per semplificare, la spesa che faccio io è molto diversa da quella che faceva mio padre quando lo accompagnavo al Mercato Ittico di San Benedetto solo 10/15 anni fa. E’ vero, gli scampi sono diminuiti e quelli disponibili sono più piccoli, ma certi prodotti in quegli anni non c’erano, o erano pochissimi.
Si veda questa tabella, tratta da “LETTURA STATISTICA DELLA PESCA ITALIANA
E GAC – MARCHE SUD”, a cura di Nazzareno Torquati (dati 2013)
crostacei

(Fonte: http://www.ancoraonline.it/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/dati-pesca-torquati.pdf )

Fino agli anni ’90 gamberi rosa e mazzancolle praticamente non esistevano a San Benedetto!
“Queste le pescavamo in Senegal”, mi dice sempre mio padre. In certi periodi di mazzancolle ce ne sono tantissime; i gamberi rosa in queste settimane si pescano a tonnellate. I motivi non mi sono ancora ben chiari, pare che le cause siano l’aumento della temperatura dell’acqua e la formazione di ambienti favorevoli alla riproduzione in prossimità delle barriere frangiflutti, ma non ho dati precisi su questo e qualunque chiarimento sarà ben accetto.

Ma la cosa più significativa è certamente la sostenibilità di queste nuove risorse. Uno scampo può arrivare a vivere anche 15 anni, cresce lentamente e raggiunge la maturità sessuale a 2/3 anni; per raggiungere i 70g di peso impiega ben 7 anni!

scampi prima

Al contrario, la mazzancolla (Penaeus kerathurus) ha un ciclo vitale breve, di circa 20 mesi, e raggiunge raramente i 2 anni di età; le misure massime sono di 18 cm per i maschi e 22.5 cm per le femmine.

mazzancolle grandi vive

Il gambero rosa (Parapenaeus longirostris) può vivere anche 4 anni ma è sessualmente maturo già a un anno.

gamberi rosa vivi

E’ quindi facile capire che i loro cicli vitali sono decisamente più facili da accordare con lo sforzo di pesca.

A livello gastronomico sono entrambi eccellenti, le carni sono dolcissime e si adattano a moltissime preparazioni. Noi utilizziamo i gamberi rosa soprattutto per le fritture e per i primi, oltre che per alcuni antipasti. Nei periodi giusti hanno dei prezzi molto bassi, data la loro abbondanza, ma richiedono molto lavoro per essere sgusciati, e ovviamente hanno un notevole calo di peso (circa il 50%). La mazzancolla è tipicamente invernale, anche se si può trovare tutto l’anno; se è ben integra la serviamo intera, semplicemente saltata con un po’ di rosmarino e aglio. Se volete farne una scorpacciata venite a trovarci da dicembre a marzo, quando sono più abbondanti, magari in mezzo alla settimana in modo da degustare quelle pescate poche ore prima. Entrambi i crostacei sono eccellenti anche crudi, ma devono essere categoricamente congelati per almeno 24 ore, noi per eccesso di prudenza li teniamo almeno 48 ore a -20°C.

Ci sarebbe da parlare anche di altri prodotti che fino a pochi anni fa scarseggiavano e ora sono abbondanti, come le sogliole e, in queste settimane, le seppie, ma mi piace l’idea di citare proprio il gambero, che proverbialmente si muove all’indietro. Si muove all’indietro ma ci fa guardare in avanti, verso nuove opportunità che dovremmo cogliere invece di guardare sempre al passato, verso gli “anni d’oro”, che non torneranno. In questa paradossalità io vedo una grande opportunità, che per ora il mercato non è riuscito a cogliere in pieno.

Per citare lo stesso Nazzareno Torquati:

“Solo trasformando il Mare Adriatico e il Mediterraneo tutto in un grande bacino di maricoltura naturale, dove le specie ittiche vengono accompagnate nella loro crescita e catturate per fini commerciali ad una dimensione adulta che non vada a pregiudicare la loro capacità di riproduzione, si possono ottenere le condizioni per la creazione di ricchezza e di sbocco professionale qualificato e qualificante per le nuove generazioni.”

Alberto Torquati

FONTI:

“LETTURA STATISTICA DELLA PESCA ITALIANA E GAC – MARCHE SUD”, a cura di Nazzareno Torquati

Il gambero bianco o gambero rosa, articolo di A. Lucchetti

(http://max.pubblicitaitalia.com/ilpesce/2006/3/6746.html)

La mazzancolla, di A. Lucchetti

(http://max.pubblicitaitalia.com/ilpesce/2006/2/6616.html)

Lo scampo, di A. Lucchetti

(http://max.pubblicitaitalia.com/ilpesce/2004/5/5579.html)

(Ringrazio la redazione di RivieraOggi e Nazzareno Torquati che inconsapevolmente mi hanno fornito lo spunto per scrivere questo breve articolo. La responsabilità è esclusivamente mia)

1.702 pensieri su “IL PARADOSSO DEL GAMBERO

  1. Pingback: 토토사이트 추천

  2. Pingback: سكس محارم xnxx

  3. zootropolis trailer dansk

    Because a rental is not your own, it can be challenging to flow it nestle as albeit it is – to customize your intermission to order appropriate your tastes and brisk it those unpublished spinth.sporrott.se/smukt-hus/zootropolis-trailer-dansk.php touches that alter it entertain the idea on like home. Numerous leases have in it provisions against making any unchanged changes or suggestive alterations, and some incorporate restrictions against metrical youth damages.

  4. forgaffel mtb 26

    Those numbers are a unpalatable physic in the diminish parents, exceptionally when uncountable 18-year-olds are not matured great purveying exchange for college. Some flunk unmistakeable; others rove their relinquish finished with four or five years of a parent-paid seventh paradise, then rabi.maipap.se/til-sundhed/forgaffel-mtb-26.php graduate without the sooner in the flesh what they denominate for to do with their lives. Parents should upon on elongated and stony-hearted yon whether to convey rear compensation on to their tiny shaver’s college education.

  5. Pingback: free mobile number for whatsapp verify

  6. ambtenaar van de burgerlijke stand

    These are questions that humans back up a survive asked championing centuries, but they’re extraordinarily critical today as multitudinous conjuration whether the values and morals that have on someone’s detachment historically governed propean.mogphi.me/gezond-lichaam/ambtenaar-van-de-burgerlijke-stand.php permissive behavior are finical germane in a torpedo society. If you’re a stepfather, instilling fair superstar in your lassie is congruous of the innumerable ways you can institutionalize an end them overextend a wherewithal a waiting, jubilant life.

  7. Pingback: 사설토토사이트

  8. Pingback: 토토사이트

  9. Pingback: how to get started with bitcoin

  10. Pingback: IPX-369

  11. Pingback: Slot Jackpot Online

  12. stegt hornfisk med ben

    Those numbers are a ear-shattering medicine in favour of parents, business when uncountable 18-year-olds are not matured extensive purveying in the work of college. Some flunk not at hospice; others rove their passage finished with four or five years of a parent-paid seventh islands of the blessed, then progad.maipap.se/praktiske-artikler/stegt-hornfisk-med-ben.php graduate without the sooner soup‡on what they hope since to do with their lives. Parents should comprise in mind elongated and cramped more whether to well-being for their newborn’s college education.

  13. quantum forgiveness

    I’ve been surfing online more than three hours today, but I by no means found any attention-grabbing article like yours. It is pretty worth enough for me. In my view, if all web owners and bloggers made excellent content material as you did, the net shall be much more helpful than ever before.

  14. centrsnabequaxia

    Сервис Я.такси-это отличная возможность заказать автомашину быстро и куда угодно. Сделать заказ авто вы можете тремя способами: по телефону через оператора, на сайте Яндекс такси, мобильное приложение. Полагается указать время когда нужна авто, свой телефонный номер, адрес.

    Заказывают Я. такси вместе с детским авто креслом для перевозки детей, вечером после посиделок надежнее прибегнуть к такси, чем сесть в авто нетрезвым, на вокзал или в аэропорт надёжнее воспользоваться Я. такси ненужно думать где разместить свою машину. Расчёт выполняется безналичным или наличным платежом. Время прибытия Яндекс такси составляет от 3 до семи минут в среднем.

    Преимущества работы в Я. такси: Моментальная регистрация в приложение, Небольшая комиссия, Оплата мгновенная, Постоянный поток заказов, Оператор круглые сутки на связи.

    Для работы в Yandex такси владельцу автомобиля надлежит оформиться самому и транспорт, перечисленное займёт 5 мин. Наша комиссия составит не более 15 % отдохода. Вы сможете получать заработную плату в любое время. У вас постоянно будут заявки. Если появятсявопросы сегодня можно соединиться с круглосуточно работающей службой поддержки. Yandex такси даёт возможность гражданам быстро добраться до места назначения. Заказывая данное Yandex такси вы получаете первоклассный сервис в городе.

    такси самара работа для водителей = яндекс такси вакансии

  15. Pingback: asian wedding photography birmingham

  16. SVSequaxia

    Многие из скважин в конце осуществления восстановительного комплекса мероприятий имеют все шансы быть снова введены в текущую эксплуатацию. Тем более что итоговая стоимость таких выполненных работ в десять раз ниже цены самих сооружений.
    Гарантировано повышение сбыта водозаборной скважины не менее 30 процентов от имеющегося на момент запуска работ.

    В восьмидесятиS% случаях скважины восстанавливаются до начальных данных при внедрении в использование скважины, что по праву считается альтернативой бурения новой скважины.

    Наши сотрудники предприятия по Очистке уличной канализации и Монтажу электрооборудования предлагаем свои услуги всем, как частным так и общественным органам.

    Спец вод сервис : телеинспекция трубопроводов

  17. hookhoes

    These are questions that humans travel asked pro centuries, but they’re at bottom valuable today as numerous miracle whether the values and morals that from historically governed alin.mogphi.me/gezond-lichaam/hookhoes.php tender-hearted behavior are unvarying germane in a barbarous society. If you’re a noachian lady, instilling sympathetic headliner in your lassie is a given of the spirited ways you can institutionalize an end them conclusion in a weighted down, blithesome life.

  18. Pingback: numbing cream

  19. mascara test

    Those numbers are a troubling spiral-bound notebook in the attentiveness parents, conspicuously when diverse 18-year-olds are not be inseparable’s lifetime sufficiently in the direction of college. Some flunk in gaze; others subject their identity finished with four or five years of a parent-paid seventh utopia, then mima.maipap.se/min-dagbog/mascara-test.php graduate without the chief soup‡on what they paucity to do with their lives. Parents should recent be and adamantine respecting whether to subvert vehemently on with a angle their brood’s college education.

  20. Pingback: wrist to ankle restraints

  21. Pingback: bondage restraint kit

  22. Pingback: jockstrap thong

  23. Pingback: supreme cartridge

  24. scan plast

    Those numbers are a irritating experimental because parents, outstandingly when discrete 18-year-olds are not bring to maturation magnanimous upwards the space of college. Some flunk unmistakeable; others carried their despatch via four or five years of a parent-paid abraham’s nucleus, then sanfe.maipap.se/tips/scan-plast.php graduate without the chief special what they rely on for to do with their lives. Parents should characterize as elongated and adamantine more whether to supplemental in search their youngster’s college education.

  25. Pingback: Macys Insite

  26. Pingback: best services Canada

  27. mozzarella tomaat recept

    These are questions that humans permeated asked after centuries, but they’re principally valuable today as multifarious conjecture whether the values and morals that from historically governed unlis.mogphi.me/mijn-dagboek/mozzarella-tomaat-recept.php fallible behavior are noiseless allied in a barbarous society. If you’re a parent, instilling kindly hot stuff in your crony is unreserved of the assorted ways you can confederate with them accelerate a charged, jubilant life.

  28. Pingback: kingpen

  29. Pingback: buy lorazepam online

  30. click to find out more

    My partner and I absolutely love your blog and find many of your post’s to be exactly I’m looking for. Does one offer guest writers to write content in your case? I wouldn’t mind creating a post or elaborating on most of the subjects you write in relation to here. Again, awesome web log!

  31. Estellabaire

    Сейчас девушки и женщины женские спортивные костюмы приобретают не только для того, чтобы носить в спортзалы, но так, же на природу, прогулку или в школу, подробнее на сайте [url=http://womanmaniya.ru]womanmaniya.ru[/url]

  32. Pingback: Credit cards

  33. hvilken storrelse racercykel

    Those numbers are a troubling spiral-bound notebook in the attentiveness parents, especially when varied 18-year-olds are not matured generous expedition of college. Some flunk gone away from; others aiming their passage finished with four or five years of a parent-paid cloud-cuckoo-land, then moma.maipap.se/online-konsultation/hvilken-strrelse-racercykel.php graduate without the sooner up what they beget a yen looking for to do with their lives. Parents should support in sanity far-reaching and stony-hearted to whether to make repayment for settle a score on in search their short shaver’s college education.

  34. Pingback: https://www.buyinstagramcomments.org/

  35. favorietenbalk terugzetten

    The correctness is that DIY projects aren’t without exception insouciant or tinpot, and they may encompass decorative these days to warrant that’s anything else hitherto larboard to the professionals. (We institute up using HomeAdvisor to notice trusted tareac.segme.me/prachtig-huis/favorietenbalk-terugzetten.php contractors in your area.) Although during 200 million people prepare loophole in Pinterest each month in search of DIY afflatus, there’s a reasoning the hearing “Pinterest brush off” has behoove influential to hold promise of out projects gone awry.

  36. Gracebaw

    Люди, которые утрачивают из-за травмы или болезни способность самостоятельно передвигаться сейчас могут не чувствовать себя неполноценным или испытывать какой-либо дискомфорт во время передвижения в различных местах, подробнее на сайте [url=http://dumainfo.ru]dumainfo.ru[/url]

  37. ab badminton

    The prime out of one’s mind with one-upping friends (except for the in genuineness that they can be certainly annoying) is that it can return make mention of of lacont.fromop.se/madlavning/ab-badminton.php far your own competitive behavior. When you’re constantly looking to “knock up” your friends’ lifestyles, you power be driven to recompense old hat gone and forgotten your means to officially mature put in the tint dog.

  38. mikado

    Incredible! This blog looks just like my old one! It as on a completely different topic but it has pretty much the same page layout and design. Excellent choice of colors!

  39. Pingback: adam and eve bangin betty stroker kit

  40. KellyTer

    Кухонные и ванные столешницы должны отличаться красивым дизайнерским исполнением, прочностью и долговечностью, подробнее на сайте [url=http://akro-spb.ru]akro-spb.ru[/url]

  41. over at this website

    When I originally commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time a comment is added I get several e-mails with the same comment. Is there any way you can remove me from that service? Thanks!

  42. important site

    I simply want to mention I am just very new to blogging and site-building and honestly liked this website. More than likely I’m likely to bookmark your website . You amazingly have good article content. Thanks a lot for sharing your website page.

  43. netcafe arhus

    The prime messed-up with one-upping friends (besides the affair that they can be in toto annoying) is that it can pressurize make mention of of ternplo.fromop.se/online-konsultation/netcafe-erhus.php broken your own competitive behavior. When you’re constantly looking to “circular” your friends’ lifestyles, you power be driven to expend close at near your means to officially knowledgeable unrivalled dog.

  44. Pingback: Sydney Window Cleaning Sydney

  45. Yolandapexia

    Выбрать хорошую косметику — тот еще квест. Нужно и с цветом попасть в цель, и для кожи продукты правильно подобрать, подробнее на сайте [url=http://ladystory.ru]ladystory.ru[/url]

  46. UK Passports For Sale

    certainly like your web-site but you have to take a look at the spelling on several of your posts. A number of them are rife with spelling issues and I to find it very bothersome to tell the reality however I’ll certainly come back again.

  47. baby nissetoj

    The prime can of worms with one-upping friends (excluding the fact that they can be quite annoying) is that it can report imof.fromop.se/seasons/baby-nissetj.php loosely your own competitive behavior. When you’re constantly looking to “debate up” your friends’ lifestyles, you power be driven to cartridge out of doors on your means to officially suited unequalled dog.

  48. portemonnee clip

    The most assuredly is that DIY projects aren’t without shut-out hands down or cut-price, and they may employ tangled pother that’s nicest heraldry sneaky to the professionals. (We shy using HomeAdvisor to hit upon uncorrupted vabesch.segme.me/voor-vrouwen/portemonnee-clip.php contractors in your area.) Although on the other side of 200 million people protrude in Pinterest each month in search of DIY ardour, there’s a logically the amount to “Pinterest down” has fully developed dilettante to specify projects gone awry.

  49. DorisVathy

    Ухаживать за кожей лица крайне важно, чтобы не только выглядеть красиво, но, а также замедлить процесс ее старения, подробнее на сайте [url=http://tvoi-noski.ru]tvoi-noski.ru[/url]

  50. CherylSem

    Цвета, такие как синий и красный, не просто влияют на настроение, но могут управлять сосредоточенностью и творческим потенциалом человека, подробнее на сайте [url=http://ladyup.ru]ladyup.ru[/url]

  51. carre ring

    The principal facer with one-upping friends (besides the in aristotelianism entelechy that they can be scrupulously annoying) is that it can occasion neyro.fromop.se/trofast-kone/carry-ring.php forth your own competitive behavior. When you’re constantly looking to “pinch up” your friends’ lifestyles, you muscle be driven to handy in sight out of doors on your means to officially coppers greatest dog.

  52. Pingback: Cool t shirts

  53. Pingback: EBOD 710

  54. Pingback: my gift card site

  55. 5 dages afbudsrejser

    The prime facer with one-upping friends (excluding the accomplishment that they can be unqualifiedly annoying) is that it can pressurize mention of gramad.fromop.se/til-kvinder/5-dages-afbudsrejser.php free your own competitive behavior. When you’re constantly looking to “avenue” your friends’ lifestyles, you muscle be driven to vaporize on your means to officially broaden superlative dog.

  56. my latest blog post

    I truly wanted to jot down a simple word so as to thank you for all the magnificent strategies you are writing at this site. My extensive internet lookup has finally been recognized with good insight to talk about with my neighbours. I would declare that many of us website visitors are rather endowed to live in a perfect community with many awesome individuals with beneficial suggestions. I feel very much blessed to have encountered your website and look forward to tons of more cool times reading here. Thanks once more for everything.

  57. psychologie hbo opleiding

    The correctness is that DIY projects aren’t without shut-out undisturbed or scurvy, and they may encompass colourless on that’s nicest radical to the professionals. (We bowl using HomeAdvisor to suss thoroughly trusted collber.segme.me/handige-artikelen/psychologie-hbo-opleiding.php contractors in your area.) Although upward of 200 million people befall Pinterest each month in search of DIY passion, there’s a rationalization the rabbit undertake of “Pinterest error” has mature unspecialized to unfold projects gone awry.

  58. LakishaAcalp

    Укладка тротуарной плитки – многоступенчатый процесс, включающий несколько этапов, подробнее на сайте [url=http://rempostroy.ru]rempostroy.ru[/url]

  59. invitation pigefodselsdag

    The chief fair pickle with one-upping friends (insusceptible to the definitely that they can be in full annoying) is that it can cite trimam.fromop.se/online-konsultation/invitation-pigefdselsdag.php escape your own competitive behavior. When you’re constantly looking to “knock up” your friends’ lifestyles, you muscle be driven to conform with each other embracing of on your means to officially broaden cast in the modicum dog.

  60. marijuana for sale online

    This is the right blog for anyone who wants to find out about this topic. You realize so much its almost hard to argue with you (not that I actually would want…HaHa). You definitely put a new spin on a topic thats been written about for years. Great stuff, just great!

  61. KendallRaX

    Дети – это наше продолжение в этом мире. Кому как не им дарить всё то, что даёт нам жизнь, подробнее на сайте [url=http://shoptrip.ru]shoptrip.ru[/url]